Free Easy Bear with Outfit Crochet Pattern
- Data Posted: 16/09/2025
- Difficulty: Intermediate
- Height: 19 cm
- Designer: Amigurumilandia
- Category: Animals | Bears
- Format: Web Version
Pattern Details
Meet Bojan, the little bear with a big personality and an even bigger heart. From the very first stitch, you’ll feel as though you’re bringing to life not just a crocheted toy, but a friend who carries warmth, charm, and a touch of magic. His gentle expression, soft round body, and adorable outfit make him the kind of companion who seems to step right out of a storybook. This Free Easy Bear with Outfit Crochet Pattern captures the timeless appeal of teddy bears, blending the nostalgia of a classic plush toy with the joy of crafting something uniquely handmade. Whether he’s standing proudly on a nursery shelf, sitting sweetly on a bed, or being hugged by tiny arms, Bojan radiates the comforting presence only a crocheted bear can give.
Bojan is not just about appearance, his story unfolds through every stitch. You can almost imagine him wandering through the forest with curiosity, his little shirt buttoned neatly and his Panama hat tilted just so, ready for a grand adventure. His embroidered eyebrows give him an endearing look of wonder, while his expressive eyes seem to follow you with kindness. He’s cuddly, yet dignified; playful, yet calm, an amigurumi bear who feels like he’s carrying his own tale. He makes a perfect handmade plushie toddler gift.
The technical side of this pattern is as enjoyable as the character itself. Bojan measures about 19 cm tall and is worked using split single crochet stitches (also known as waistcoat stitch or x-stitch) in spirals, which gives his fabric a beautifully dense, knitted-like texture. His nose and front legs are crocheted directly into the body, while the tail is added during the process for a seamless finish. The head and ears are sewn on separately, giving you the chance to shape his features with care. His outfit includes a shirt crocheted in rows with V-stitches and neat edging, and two versions of a Panama hat, one with a flat crown, another with a rounded one, so you can choose the style you prefer. Small details like sculpting the muzzle and shaping the eye sockets add depth and realism, making Bojan look alive with expression. Though the pattern is marked as intermediate, it’s a wonderful challenge for those ready to explore shaping and assembly while still relying on familiar stitches. With patience, you’ll enjoy seeing how each part, legs, arms, body, head, ears, and accessories, comes together into a cohesive and delightful whole.
One of the greatest joys of crocheting Bojan is how customizable he can be. Keep him in traditional bear tones, or experiment with whimsical colors to match a nursery theme. Dress him in bright shades for a cheerful vibe, or soft pastels for a gentle, dreamy bear. Try self-striping yarns for his hat, or add seasonal accessories like a scarf, bow tie, or even a tiny backpack. Every decision you make adds to his character, turning each Bojan into a one-of-a-kind creation.
Bears have long been symbols of comfort, courage, and gentle strength. They represent protection, patience, and the cozy security of childhood bedtime stories. Crocheting Bojan is not just about how to make a Crochet Standing Bear, it’s about creating a companion who carries all that symbolism in every stitch. He can be a cuddly bedtime cuddly friend, a thoughtful handmade gift, or simply a reminder of the joy that comes from making something with your own hands. When you crochet Bojan, you’re not just following instructions, you’re weaving a story, shaping a personality, and crafting a memory that lasts far beyond the yarn itself. So let your hook guide you, embrace the process, and enjoy bringing to life a bear who is sure to become a beloved treasure.
Materials
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Abbreviations
- MR: magic ring
- sc: single crochet
- ch: chain
- st: stitch from the previous row
- inc: increase
- dec: decrease
- sl st: slip stitch
- (…) * X: repeat the instructions inside the parentheses X times
- = : the number after the = indicates the total stitch count in the round
Additional Information
- This pattern takes approximately 8 hours to complete.
- The toy is crocheted from the bottom up using “split single crochet” (also known as “x-stitch” or “waistcoat stitch”) in a spiral unless otherwise specified. Hats and shirts are crocheted with regular “V-shaped stitches.”
- The front legs and nose are crocheted into the toy, while the tail is made during the process. The head and ears are sewn on.
- Mark the beginning of each round with a contrasting thread thinner than the yarn used for the toy. This pattern does not include tutorials and is intended for those with basic crochet skills.
Top 10 Expert Tips for Crocheting Perfect Amigurumi 🧶✨
1. Choose your materials wisely 🎀: The right yarn and hook make all the difference. I always reach for non-fraying cotton or smooth acrylic, paired with a slightly smaller hook to keep the stitches snug. If you’re unsure where to start, check out our complete yarn and hook guide.
2. Consistent tension is everything 🤏: Good amigurumi starts with even stitches. If your fabric feels off—too loose, too stiff—don’t power through. Take a moment to swatch and adjust. Learn how to fine-tune in how to master crochet tension.
3. Mark every round—no exceptions 📌: Even after years of crocheting, I still use stitch markers religiously. It’s not about memory—it's about precision. For more tricks I swear by, read our stitch marker tutorial.
4. Stuff slowly and intentionally 🧸: Overstuffed toys lose shape, underfilled ones collapse. I add fiberfill gradually, shaping as I go. There’s an art to it, and you’ll get it with practice—or by reading how to stuff amigurumi without wrinkles.
5. Sew with care and patience ✂️: Don’t rush the assembly. Seam invisibly, match edges, and always secure your threads deep inside. A clean finish is what sets great work apart. Follow the steps in professional amigurumi sewing techniques.
6. Texture brings life to your stitches 🔄: A little puff stitch here, a popcorn detail there—they add so much personality. When used thoughtfully, texture makes even the simplest design shine. See examples in creative crochet textures.
7. Use safe, secure details—especially for little hands 👀: I’ve made hundreds of toys for children, and I never compromise on safety. Reinforced safety eyes or embroidered features are always my go-to. Read my checklist in amigurumi safety and finishing touches.
8. Let color tell the story 🌈: Whether it’s muted earth tones or bright pastels, color changes everything. Don’t be afraid to experiment—just make it your own. If you need ideas, browse unique amigurumi customization ideas.
9. Document your process 📓: After so many years, I can’t count how many times notes saved me from repeating a mistake—or helped me replicate a success. Stay organized with our project tracking template.
10. Trust the process, not perfection ⏳: Some projects take longer. Some need to be unraveled. That’s okay. The magic is in the making. When you hit a block, revisit tips to keep your crochet momentum.
Let's Get Started
Check off each row as you progress to track your steps.
Front Legs
Crochet 1-2 sc. This depends on the degree of your stitch shift. The decreases and the closing round of the leg should be parallel. Stuff only the lower part of the legs lightly. Fold in half and crochet 6 sc through both layers. Fasten off and cut the yarn.
The legs will be crocheted into the body later.
Nose
Chain 5, starting in the second chain from the hook:
Fasten off and cut the yarn.
You can stuff the nose slightly now or later.
The nose will be crocheted into the head.
Head
In the next round, we will crochet the cheeks and attach the nose.
Stuff the nose slightly if you haven’t already.
If you are using safety eyes, insert them at this stage. Place them between Rounds 17 and 18, with 6-8 stitches between the eyes (I used 8 stitches). Center the eyes relative to the nose.
Take the felt circles. Carefully fold them in half without creasing and make small cuts slightly offset from the center toward the edge. Turn the circles and make perpendicular cuts (forming an X). Insert the safety eyes through the felt and secure them onto the head.
Later, after finishing the sculpting, you can carefully glue the felt into place.
Stuff the head firmly but not excessively.
Keep in mind that the head will be sculpted later. Fasten off and hide the yarn tail inside.
Lower Legs
Temporarily secure and cut the yarn on the first leg, leaving a tail of about 30 cm. Do not cut the yarn on the second leg.
- Place the legs side by side and adjust the "pigeon-toed" stance of the toy.
- Crochet a few additional stitches along the second leg to reach the connection point on the inner side (I crocheted 7 sc, but your stitch shift may differ).
- Go back to the first leg and crochet the same number of additional stitches. This ensures the legs are the same height.
Now you can fasten off and cut the yarn short. Remove the marker threads. Count backward on the first leg by twice the number of extra stitches you added (in my case, 14). This marks the connection point between the first and second legs.
Check the symmetry by aligning the legs at the connection points.
Body
Stuff the body firmly as you crochet.
Make a chain of 3 ch to connect the legs.
Place a marker thread.
Optional: Crochet the tail in this round.
To center the tail, I crocheted 63 sc in Round 9, then worked as follows: On the front loop of stitch 64 from the previous round, sl st, ch 5, then work back along the chain with 4 sc. Sl st into the front loop of stitch 65, and 1 sc into stitch 66.
In Round 10, crochet 2 sc over the tail stitches, working into the remaining back loops of Round 9.
Tip: Your stitch alignment may differ, so adjust the tail placement to ensure it is centered at the back.
In Round 24, we will attach the front legs.
Stuff the body firmly but not completely. Leave about 1 cm unstuffed to make attaching the legs easier and to prevent stuffing from poking through the stitches. Position the legs strictly on the sides: crochet 6 sc along with each leg, with 12 sc between them.
With my stitch alignment, the placement was as follows:
Crochet a few more stitches (I did 1 sc and a sl st in the next stitch) and fasten off at the center back of the body. Leave a 50 cm tail for sewing the head. Remove the marker thread. Stuff the body firmly until it is fully filled.
Tip: When sewing the head to the body, don’t forget to add extra stuffing to the neck for stability. For convenience, you can use a knitting needle to temporarily secure the head to the body.
Sculpting (Face Shaping)
We will shape the mouth and eye sockets using sculpting stitches. Start by marking 6 points on the muzzle with pins.
Find the center of the muzzle. This can be done by placing a thread, knitting needle, or sewing needle vertically down from the center of the nose. Mark points between Rounds 29 and 30, with 2 sc between the pins.
Next, mark 4 additional points between Rounds 18 and 19 at the outer and inner corners of the eyes. The inner corners align with the start and end of the crocheted nose. There should be 2 sc between the inner and outer points.
- Insert the needle at point 1, leaving a 25–30 cm tail. Bring the needle out at point 2.
- Insert the needle at point 3, then bring it out at point 6.
- Adjust the thread so it lies under the eye and felt circle, pull it tight, and tie a double knot. Without cutting the thread, insert the needle at point 6 and bring it out at point 5.
- Then insert it at point 4 and bring it out at point 1. Tighten and tie another double knot.
- Hide the threads inside the head. The last knot and the entry/exit points can be carefully sealed with clear universal glue. I used "Moment Crystal."
Lower Lip
- Leave a 30 cm tail of thread and crochet 6 sc in MR.
- Pull to close the ring.
- Leave a tail of about 40–45 cm and cut the yarn. You now have a piece resembling a semicircle.
- Position the piece and secure it 2–3 rounds below the mouth sculpting. The center of the lip should be slightly lower than the edges. When sewing, maintain moderate thread tension. Do not pull too tightly.
- Pass the middle thread to the back of the head (to the MR) and back through any nearby stitch. I made a small stitch from the center of the ring through one round into the head. You can repeat this if necessary.
- Make the stitch tight but not overly tight. Hide the thread inside the head with a few locking stitches.
Using the second tail of thread, secure both edges of the lip. Stitch upward and back down, then bring the thread out at the nose attachment point (between Rounds 18 and 19).
Thanks to the sculpting, these stitches will remain invisible.
Ears
Secure the thread, leave about 45 cm for sewing, and cut the yarn.
Sewing the Ears
- The upper part of the ears is sewn between Rounds 10 and 11 from the top of the head. The distance between the ears along Round 11 is 32 stitches (increases are counted as 2 stitches), i.e., 16 stitches to each side from the center of the muzzle.
- Using thin black thread, embroider the eyebrows. If desired, you can also embroider "folds" above the cheeks and a line from the nose to the mouth. In my opinion, just the eyebrows were sufficient.
Panama Hat with Hook 1
(With a flat crown)
Crochet loosely from top to bottom, using “V stitches.”
Take into account your crochet tension. You may need a larger hook. Try the hat on as you go and adjust the desired depth to your preference. I changed colors, but you can crochet a solid-color hat or use variegated or melange yarn.
Secure the thread, cut, and weave in the ends. The Panama hat for the bear is ready.
Panama Hat with Hook 2
(With a rounded crown)
Crochet loosely from top to bottom using “V stitches.”
Take your crochet tension into account. You may need a larger hook. Try the hat on as you go and adjust the desired depth to your preference.
Secure the thread, cut, and weave in the ends. The Panama hat for the bear is ready.
Shirt with a Crochet Hook
Crochet in rows, turning at the end of each row with a turning chain.
Chain 37, and in the reverse direction, starting in the 2nd chain from the hook:
Do not cut the yarn. Start the edging (with 3 sc in corner stitches): Work up the edge, around the neckline, down the other edge (don’t forget a button loop with 4-5 ch, depending on your button's diameter), and finish the bottom with reverse single crochet (“crab stitch”).
Thank you!
Congratulations on finishing your crochet project. Every stitch tells a story — and this one is uniquely yours. 💖
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